|Posted on May 4, 2014 at 8:35 PM|
Stage 1: Straighten the Hair Safely and Efficiently
The curl pattern or characteristic shape of hair is due to the fact that different parts of the hair have different protein levels, making it a virtual patchwork of harder and softer “bridge” areas. Control Zero straightener uses an edible food grade active ingredient to open the disulfide bridge that gives the hair its characteristic shape, allowing it to be styled or straightened. Other chemicals have been used in the past to do this job, ranging from thioglycolates (which smell like cat urine) to formaldehyde (which is banned in many parts of the world because it is environmentally harmful and a known carcinogen). There are no paraben preservatives in Control Zero. We use a highly effective yogurt based enzyme instead.
Stage 2: Repair Any Damage to the Hair
No matter how the straightening is done, when the cuticles of the hair (which encase the long keratin strands) reform after straightening, the infrastructure has been weakened by the broken disulfide. Laboratory tests have shown that after a lye “relaxing” treatment, hair strength is only 20% of what it was before the treatment and after a formaldehyde treatment hair is only 75% of its pre-treatment, strength. The multi-Cynectin keratin protein blend used in Control Zero Masque -- an integral part of the Control Zero system -- has been laboratory proven to restore hair to its pre-treatment strength. In many cases, where hair has been compromised by overtreatment in the past, the hair is left "better than new".
Stage 3: Leave the Hair Better than New!
SMOOTHED vs STRAIGHTENED
SMOOTHING IS NOT HAIR STRAIGHTENING because the underlying structure of the hair remains unchanged. SMOOTHING CHEMISTRY is a process in which positively charged molecules called "cationic surfactants" (they have an extra proton, making them positively charged) are allowed to attach themselves to the negatively charged keratins that form the hair cuticle (a high percentage of those negatively charged proteins are actually sticking out, like the spines on a cactus). Smoothing surfactants have two parts, one that loves water (hydrophilic) and another oily part that hates it (hydrophobic). The water loving part attaches to the hair, while the oily ends "stick out" and that is what gives the hair its smoothness and weight. It lasts only until it is washed out with the detergents (the surfactants in shampoo). The best keratins, like those used in Cynectin, will benefit the hair, but they will not keep it straight without breaking the disulfide bonds first.
Control Zero Masque acidity "protonates" the hair and adds more hydrogen bonds between the keratins in the hair. Other products often use oily surfactants to "glue" frizz and split ends together for a washing or two.
While we know that the curliness or straightness of hair depends on the shape of the hair bulb in the skin, the stability of that shape – the reason it stays curly or straight – is caused by a chemical bond in the protein cysteine, often called the disulfide bridge. These bridges make the hair stable and the geometric shape (the helix) is angled depending upon bonds between the amino acids. These bridges make the hair stable and the curliness or straightness depends upon them.
Hair proteins are stretched when the bridges are broken and can be reshaped because the bonds that hold them together in the shafts of the hair have been broken (also called, reduced), When the breaking process ends after styling, new disulfide bridges are formed between the neighboring cysteine proteins. It is good to wait a day or two before wetting the hair by washing, because bridge building take some time. That is real straightening and not just smoothing.
How to break the bonds is the key question
The reducing agent used in so-called Brazilian keratin treatments is formaldehyde (often mislabeled in the US under a variety of names). It is very effective and doesn’t smell much, but it is an environmental hazard and has been proven to cause cancer. It is forbidden in most of the world in quantities large enough to be effective for bridge breaking. Another popular chemical are the “thios” which are used in traditional permanent waves, but which smell terrible because of the large amount of sulfur they contain and release. Control Zero's reducing agent is so safe that you could eat it safely!
The information that follows has been written with an eye toward those stylists, salon owners and consumers who want to get more facts about Anevolve, formaldehyde-free straightening using Control Zero, the composition of Cynectin brand proteins and updates about the controversy involving the mislabeling of so-called “Brazilian” keratin products.
The safe transition back to beautiful, healthy hair is our goal.
The Anevolve approach to hair care is that each of our products is part of a system designed to make hair beautiful, healthy and manageable. We believe that healthy hair is by definition strong, vibrant, and beautiful, and that this definition applies as much to the hair of seniors as it does to that of children.
The primary keratin structure in hair is called alpha-keratin. More than 25 variations of alpha-keratin are found in human cells. The main protein in the
hair (about 20%) is cysteine.
Long strands of keratin form a thicker coil with the alpha-keratin stands braided together, giving hair its long structure.
The coils are twisted around each other and make long braided filaments (the same way that rope is made).
Hair also gets strength from interactions between the strands. Alpha-keratin polypeptides form strong disulfide bonds or bridges. Control Zero Straightening Gel gently breaks these disulfide bonds. The hair is then styled (straightened or curled) and the bonds slowly reform as the Cynectin Keratin Protein Essence Masque strengthens, beautifies and revitalizes the newly restyled strands.
Cynectin™ is a blend of keratin proteins from a variety of natural sources that are especially rich in cysteine and have the same long fibrous structure that you see in the hair images above. In fact, Cynectin proteins are almost identical to those found in your hair.
BKT treatments that claim to contain keratin often use only what are called “hydrolyzed” keratins, usually treated cow hooves, feathers or other slaughterhouse waste. While the application of wool-based hydrolyzed keratin to hair has proven to be beneficial, production reduces the proteins to a kind of un-natural “confetti”, far less effective than the newly developed long filament strands (intermediate filament proteins) and vegetable proteins which characterize Cynectin. Proteins from a wide variety of natural sources make up Cynectin, and all of them are derived from organic materials. No animal is ever harmed in the production of Cynectin, which is guaranteed to be both the world’s finest multi-protein keratin and CRUELTY FREE.
Categories: keratin treatments